HISTORY OF SAN JORGE
ECO-LODGE & BOTANICAL RESERVE/quito
THE LAST INCAN EMPEROR'S TRAIL
By
Dr. George Cruz B.
Hiking Naturalist Tours at San Jorge Eco-Lodge |
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about our Eco-Adventure Tour
The Ancient Civilizations of Ecuador forged a trail through the highlands
of the Andes, crossing the Nono Alto Valley, and connecting the Northern
end of Quito to the Coastal interior regions. This trail traverses near
the famous 'Middle of The World" line, where zero degrees latitude meets
zero degrees longitude at the center of the equator. It is in this area
where San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve is located and where our
cultural, ecological and eco-adventure activities are developed. One
can feel the ancient touch when horseback riding, hiking, birdwatching,
biking, or partaking in shamanism practices while at San Jorge Botanical
Reserve.
Pre-Incan Civilizations
The first etnia, or, human groups, in the region now known as
Ecuador, were migratory tribes who moved with the herds, living off
the land and utilizing natural resources, setting up seasonal camps
as they traveled. These people were hunters & gatherers who eventually
began to populate the northern areas, some 12,000 years ago.
The first known group to become sedentary was the Cotocollao Tribe,
around 3500 years ago. This tribe developed a group of villages in the
Ecuadorian Andes Mountain area. The main village was located at the
North end of what is now Quito, in front of a lake, which has now since
disappeared. It is important to note that while many llama and alpaca
bones have been found around these dwellings; whether these animals
were wild or domesticated during this period of time remains uncertain.
Hunting was a customary activity of these groups, and they would often
hunt deer, weasel, skunks, wolves, pigeons, opossum, guinea pigs, mice,
rabbits and various other wild animals.
The Cotocollao were a diminutive people; the males averaging 1,59 cm
tall, while the females measured 1,48 cm. It is interesting to note
that one can see their influence in the ceramics of Machalilla and the La Chorrera cultures of this period, namely in the legs
and supporting structure of the ceramics. These etnia initially buried
their dead alone, adopting the practices of group burials some time
later, most likely due to the increasing permanence of their settlements.
This etnia is the structural base of the Quito nationality because it
is the first testimony of a village in Ecuador. Thousands of years before
the Spanish discovered this area, this was the first foundation of Quito.
The Pululahua volcanic eruption, around 1500 BC, completely destroyed
this early civilization.
This area was their main ceremonial location. The province of the Yumbos,
Tulipe Village (Pichincha Province) which also included Cachillacta,
Gualea, Alambi, Mindo, Jitan, Embitusa, and Alosqui.
The Tulipe Village has 3 different ancient cultural locations, which
looks like a sample of the Cotocollao Culture of 1500 BC. This group
also arrived to this area and some ceremonial swimming pools that belonged
to theYumbos and Incan cultures have been discovered there.
From 550 BC - 500 AD another native culture of Chaupicruz habituated in the eastern Pichincha foothills from the Northern to the
Southern areas. They also occupied the San Jorge areas and would use
these trails to connect the coastal interiors. The museum at San Jorge
contains ceramics and other artifacts belonging to these groups.
The tribes responsible for creating the pre-Incan roads and trails and
that connect areas with the coastal interior were the Niguas,
Cocaniguas, Bolaniguas, Xachilas and Yumbos.
Trading Activities
The main commercial activities these groups developed were trading highland
Andes products with exotic subtropical products. They brought to these
trails from the coast, Salt, cotton, yucca, papayas, pineapples, peanuts,
pumpkin, sweet potatoes, special sea shells (Spondilus, found only in
the Machalilla area), fish and other sea products. Even the Incas considered
these products to be sacred for thousands of years.
Trading in goods from the highlands, the Cotocollao brought potatoes,
chilies, corn, special indigenous roots, i.e. mellocos, mashuas, ocas,
quinua and chochos.
Of special interest in these markets was a type of crystal used for
making weapons and utensils, a shining black volcanic glass called Obsidian. Even now, we find on our trips, hand-worked artifacts of this crystalline
material. The only remaining natural obsidian mine in Ecuador is located
in the Antizana area of the eastern Andes chain.
The Four Climate Zones:
Hiking during ancient times, was a long and interesting journey. The
spectacular views and backdrops of that time are still surreal today.
In order to complete this journey, from Quito or Cotocollao and down
to Tulipe into the coastal interiors, one must pass through four distinct
climate environments, or zones, viewing the magical changes in vegetation
and fauna as you passed through these four distinct climate zones. This
is true even today! The altitude ranges from The Highland Rain Forest,
around 3500 mts o.s.l (over sea level); the High Barren Plains ,
around 3300 mts o.sl., the Cloud Forest around 1800 mts and
down to the Subtropical Rain Forest at an altitude of around
900 mts o.s.l.
Incan Empire History:
In the Incan Empire Age, around 1500 A.D., the Cotocollao area was an
Incan Mitimae Village. The Mitimaes were complete villages that were
sent by the Emperor to travel far and wide, especially to the boundaries
of the empire, to the tribes that were living in the center of the empire.
These areas, now known as Cuzco and Great Collao,
are in the lower and higher areas of Peru.
The idea behind sending their people from the Mitimae villages to travel
these vast distances was to introduce the Incan culture to the tribes
that were furthest away. They would then observe the behavior of these
distant tribes in comparison with Incan behaviorism. Emperor Huayna
Capac, who was the father of the last Incan Emperor, the Quitenian Inca
Atahualpa, began these activities in these areas. This attempt to integrate
these people into the Incan realm proved unsuccessful, however, as the
indigenous tribes generally did not accept these practices, and those
that arrived were considered spies, and were unable to attain a social
connection to these people.
We also know that the Southern invaders used these paths and trails
that pass by San Jorge. They were built thousands of years ago before
the Incas came to these locations. In those days, from Cotocollao County,
it was easy to hike uphill, until you reached 3500 mts. This is the
highest point of the highland valley before you begin to descend to
the coastal interiors. These roadways were used by average citizens,
soldiers, travelers, mitimaes and traders traveling with their llamas.
Llamas were commonly used for transportation in those times.
These roads also were used by the Chasquis, or human mail
express; couriers who by their remarkable running speed were capable
of transmitting messages in amazing record time. A single Chasqui would
run a distance of approx.1200 mts, while a second CHASQUI was waiting
for the information to pass on, in a fashion similar to a relay race.
This process made for a very fast and efficient service.
It is obvious that these trails were already in place before the Incas,
but they did repair and improve these great land connections. The NoNo
Alto Valley route was heavily travelled, also used by the Incas for
the fastest connection to Tulipe, which was the main religious center
in the northwest coast interior area. In Tulipe, there is evidence of
a castle and a grand swimming pool built by the Incan Empire. In 1530
A.D. Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru, gave Spanish Captain
John Lobato de Sosa, the land of the Cotocollaos and the Yumbos. This
gift was given in thanks for his help in conquering the Incan Empire.
In those days, San Jorge Botanical Reserve was part of this land. In
1560 A.D., the Cotocallao County was founded. The captains lived together
with an Indian noble, Isabel Yarupalla who was the wife of Atahualpa.
Atahualpa was the last emperor killed by the Spanish conquers in Cajamarca.
Once Emperor Atahualpa was killed, Ruminahui, a brave and cruel Incan
army general, arrived in Quito and destroyed the city. He killed the
virgins and hid all the gold and silver treasures that the Incas in
Quito had. History tells us he fled with four thousand women and eleven
sons of Atahualpa to the land of the Yumbos. He used the shorter route,
(San Jorge). The Spanish persecuted him because they wanted to know
where he hid his treasures. We know that these trails were used by the
last Incan nobles, particularly the children of Emperor Atahualpa and
Ruminahui, who were desperately trying to run away from the conquers.
When they arrived in Quito they only found ashes.
The Yumbos country wasn't new to the heroes. Huayna Capac conquered
this country.This army became an important ceremonial and governmental
infrastructure.
Archaeologist Ronald Lippi has found evidence of Incan sling stones in Palmitopamba
and Tulipe. It appears as though the last descendants of the Incan Emperor,
along with the noble women were captured between Palmitopamba, Gualea,
Las Tolas and Tulipe. This occurred after the fight between Ruy Diaz
and Ruminahui.
Sebastian de Benalcazar, the Spanish Quito conqueror, desperate for
the treasures, decided to seek out and find Ruminahui. He sent a soldier
named Ruy Diaz and seventy soldiers to locate him in the "land of the
Yumbos". Diaz never found Ruminahui, but he returned to Quito with some
silver and gold cups, rich fabrics, belonging to Huayna Capac, Atahualpas
father. He also brought back many beautiful women, along with Atahualpa's
sons.
Ruminahui was captured afterward, but never revealed where the treasure
was hidden, even though he was interrogated brutally. To this day, no
one actually knows where the treasure was hidden. So in essence, the
treasures of Quito, the noble Quitenian women and the sons of Atahualpa
were safe in the Yumbos before Ruy Diaz captured them. It is clear that
the Quitenian gold treasure was hidden in some area of the Yumbos land,
or in some place on the trail to the Yumbos because these treasures
became a problem for Ruminahui to carry because he had to move faster,
once he was being pursued.
San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve Expeditions
The road that takes us from Quito to the Yumbos land (Tulipe and surrounding
areas) crosses San Jorge Botanical Reserve. We now have biking, horseback
riding, hiking and bird watching expeditions along this ancient road.
We can still see the coluncus, old road vestiges when we visit this
area. Our expeditions cover all of this land taking us to Tulipe. There
also are one, two and three day Archeological tours. They could be done
by hiking, horseback riding, biking or simply by car. Traveling through
these mountains and jungles with the panoramic views of the mountains,
flora and fauna makes for a wonderful sight seeing adventure. It also
becomes reminiscent of the area's pure and explosive history.
18th Century History
Pedro Vicente Maldonado, and Ecuadorian scientists improved the pre-Inca
roads around the 18th Century. French Scientists, La Condamine, Godin
and Bouguer traveled these roads in order to measure the Middle of the
World. This road went down to Pedernales in the Manabi province. This
area was known as the Selva Florida, (Flowered Jungle) because of its
enormous and beautiful biodiversity. Jesuit priests owned this property
before it was divided into the Singuna Farm.
In 1905, General Flavio Alfaro and Ecuadorian President Eloy Alfaro
were the owners of San Jorge (Singuna) Farm. The Singuna farmhouse was
built near the pre-Incan roads. President Alfaro was a liberal and one
of the most important Presidents of Ecuador. He was the only one who
made changes in Ecuadorian society. He created civil marriage, divorce,
public schools and high schools. He stopped the political power of the
church and created the train from Quito to Guayaquil. In 1912, he and
his political party were murdered in Quito. During the beginning of
the 20th Century, these roads were used by the sugar cane and liquor
smugglers, in order for them to evade paying their taxes.
Today's San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve
Dr. George Cruz, a Veterinarian, presently owns San Jorge Botanical
Reserve. Dr. Cruz has a strong love for nature and history. He and his
family have worked hard in order to preserve the property and transform
the Singuna Farm into a magnificent Eco-Lodge. San Jorge Eco-Lodge &
Botanical Reserve has been in business for over 15 years and has carved
quite a reputation amongst students of ecology, teachers, eco-adventure
travelers and nature lovers who visit this charming retreat located
in the Pichincha foothills.
Presently, all of the international promotion is being developed by Cheryl Korowotny, an adventurous and knowledgeable American
woman.
Ms. Korowotny is making great advances bringing international awareness
of this Andes treasure that is known today as San Jorge Eco-Lodge &
Botanical Reserve.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1527 Bartolome de las Casas - Opusculos cartas Memoriales
1553 Pedro Cieza de Leon - Cronica del Peru
1560 Garcilazo de la Vega - Comentarios Reales de los Incas
1572 Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa - Historia de los Incas
1600 Comentarios Reales Incas - Bibiloteca Peruana Tom 2, Lima
1892 Federico Gonzales Suarez - Historia General de la Republica del
Ecuador
1971 Salomon, Frank & Clark, Erickson - Tulipe, un Recinto Sagrado en
la Montana Ecuatoriana
1980 Lippi, Ronald - Antiguos Caminos Noroocidentales de Quito
1981 Museo Antropoligico del Banco Central - Los primeros hombres del
Ecuador
1982 Arqueologia de Quito Fase 1 Cotocollao Padre Porras
2000 Eduardo Almeida Reyes - Culturas pre hispanaicas del Ecuador 2001
Culturas prehispanicas del Ecuador Chaquinan
2003 Segunda E Moreno - Alamientos indigenas en la Audiencia de Quito
2003 Tras las Huellas de Ruminahui Tamara Estupinan
2003 Eduardo Almeida Reyes - Monumentos Arqueologicos del Ecuador
Cheryl Korowotny
International Director
The Magic Birding & Photography Circuit
SAN JORGE ECO-LODGES & BOTANICAL RESERVES
Quito – Tandayapa – Milpe - Cosanga - Estero Hondo-Sumaco Bajo-Guacamayos
Ecuador – South America
Email: birdwatching@eco-lodgesanjorge.com
(877) 565-2596 Toll Free USA & Canada.
Magic Birding & Photography Circuit Map
San Jorge has been awarded the Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence for the past 11 consecutive years!