ANNIVERSARY IN THE RAINFOREST

We’re off again! Celebrating our 30th anniversary with our 3rd trip to bird-rich Ecuador, a country the size of Colorado, with twice as many birds as the entire North American continent! Talk about mind-blowing!

Our first trip in 2005 was made possible due  to the hard work of some of Phil’s high school students – winners in a  Florida State Envirothon competition. The winning coach (Phil) won a trip to the Galapagos! Of course he couldn’t go without me – his favorite birding partner – and of course, we couldn’t go to the Galapagos without spending some time in the nearby rainforests and Andes mountains of Ecuador looking for some fabulous birds. LIke the Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, and the Streaked Tufted Cheek, and the White-tailed Tyrannulet, and the Pale-billed Aracari, and the Lemon-rumped Tanager, and the Sparkling Violetear, or the Green-crowned Brilliant, or the . . . well, you get the picture. Speaking of pictures, if you want to see what these birds look like, you can google each one, but you’ll have to imagine them deep in a rainforest dripping with mosses and bromeliads and orchids with  misty clouds rising up out of the steep valleys.

Our experiences in Ecuador have been with friendly people, delicious native foods, and beautiful lodges buried in some cases way back in the forests, one we even had to hike in to. “Field Guides”, a birding tour company, describes Ecuador best:”Tiny Ecuador, covering only 2.5 percent of South America’s landmass, supports more than half its avifauna – about a sixth of the Earth’s bird species! Its incredible avian diversity, totaling nearly 1600 species is a direct reflection of its habitat diversity. Cactus-clad desert on the southwest coast gives way to some of the wettest of the world’s rainforests just 200 miles to the north. Vast Amazonian rainforests east of the Andes lie but a few tens of miles from paramo grassland and glaciers at 20,000 feet!”

If we wanted to go birding with a group of people and be led by the hand to see many species, we would go with this tour company. They have a great reputation and reading their website and their newsletter is inspiring! However, so far, Phil and I usually prefer to hunt for and find our own birds, and even though we don’t find as many as we would with a guide, there is some satisfaction in doing it by ourselves. We have on occasion used a guide for several hours or a day, and in fact you can’t tour in the Galapagos without one! But because our time is very limited on this upcoming trip, we’re letting our lodge hosts drive us around! How easy could that be? We’ll let you know how we do. When we drive ourselves around we always get lost, since most of these Central and South American countries we’ve visited seem to have something against road signs, and getting lost is pretty easy to do.

This trip, we’re returning to a few of the places we’ve been on previous trips – mainly because we love the areas so much, and they’re famous because there are so many birds there. And we still haven’t seen them all! We usually spend at least a day acclimating to the high altitude, so we will enjoy birding again around the several hundred-acre forest at our lodge, San Jorge Eco-Lodge and Botanical Reserve about 20 minutes west out of  Quito, not far from the active Volcan Pichincha.  

Birders who have been to Ecuador are very familiar with the places we will visit,  the first of which is up a very rough 4-5 mile road to a trailhead at the 10,500 ft high Yanacocha Ecological Reserve, cared for by the Jocotoco Conservation Foundation. This is an area of “high barren plains and highland rainforest”.  Another day we will travel on the Nono-Mindo Road along the Alambi River  for several miles, stopping many times along the way to look at birds, eventually arriving at a famous birding area called Tandayapa. This road encompasses highland rainforest and cloud forest. Our 4th day we’ll go east, high up into the Andes,  to another well-known birding area at Papallacta Pass, which is a habitat in “high barren plains”, and reminds me of the area above treeline in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana. Cold, windy, short and stubbly vegetation, and oh yes, over 13,000 feet up!

Day 1, Sept 25, 2013. On our way to Ecuador

Well, we thought the San Jorge Eco-lodge was about 20 minutes west of the Quito airport. When we got to Quito (after a 3-hour layover in Bogota, Columbia) and cleared customs, it was well after 2am, the next day. We were expecting a driver from our lodge to be standing out front holding a sign “San Jorge Eco-lodge” for us (which is what we had been told) and he would take us the 20-minute drive to the lodge. Were we ever in for a surprise! Since we were there 5 years ago, they had moved the airport! So we were now about 1 1/2 hours away from the lodge. No one had told us about this change and we got out to the exit area and there was no one there holding up a sign. Uh oh.

Phil got someone to help him call the lodge to see where they were, and we learned that the driver had returned to the lodge and we should take a taxi!At the last minute (Good planning or premonition?), before we left home, I had made luggage tags – just in case of who-knew-what. I had very cleverly glued a cut-out copy of the lodge letterhead onto cardboard, encased them in contact plastic, and attached them to our bags. That is how Phil had their phone number at hand when he had to call them. And that is how our taxi driver had their phone number to call them to find the final road up to the lodge.

We didn’t get an explanation of what had happened at the time due to the language barrier. (We have GOT to learn how to speak Spanish!) At that point we had to find a taxi driver who could find his way to the lodge – not an easy destination – especially with no street or road signs. A man (speaking some English) who seemed to be managing the taxis found a driver who said he thought he could find it. When we expressed concern and doubt, the “manager” decided to take us himself! We agreed on $45. He grabbed a nearby taxi, we threw our bags in the trunk, and off we went.

After driving for what seemed like forever, and being sleep-deprived, through miles and miles of Quito and the surrounding areas, we got to a road that we recognized from our last trip, but none of us (including the driver) were exactly sure which was the one that would take us up to the lodge. But we were getting close! Our driver called the lodge and got instructions for the last 1/2 mile.The manager, Vicente, and his helper, Fernando, met us at the gate and were so glad to see us, and so apologetic for us having been abandoned at the airport. We learned that another couple had shown up at the airport a few minutes before us, seen the sign and approached the lodge driver about staying there. Since language was a problem, the lodge driver thought they were the couple he was supposed to pick up! So there went our ride.

We said a grateful goodbye to our taxi driver, with a nice tip, and Vicente and Fernando carried our bags up to our lovely room. We told Vicente we thought we’d be ready for breakfast by 9am.We had paid extra to have a queen-size bed and a balcony with a view, and in 2 or 3 hours we would actually be able to see it! But at that moment, at about 4AM, we fell into our deliciously comfortable, firm bed and didn’t wake up until 8:30 the next morning.

Day 2, Sept. 26, 2013. San Jorge Eco-lodge, northwest of Quito, Ecuador

Nights and early mornings are chilly there – in the high 40’s to low 50’s depending on the altitude. Sleeping under wool blankets and a comforter – and with a small heater in the room – we were warm. We opened our curtains and the doors out onto our balcony, and there far below us in the distance was the sprawling city of Quito (over a mile high) – chock-a-block with crowded, cramped city dwellings – with high mountains even farther beyond in the distance. Nearby, below us, was the rest of the lodge, tile-covered roofs, patios among gardens, blooming with beautiful flowers and with hummingbird feeders hanging all around, and nearby farms with roosters that had been awake for hours.

Phil had planned for our first day to be laid back – just getting used to the altitude and recovering from the long journey to get there. There are several trails on the 230-acre San Jorge mountain reserve, so plenty of places to look for birds “in our own backyard”. We knew the day would warm up, so we dressed in layers. Our room was on the 2nd floor of the upper building, and required a hike up a trail through a garden to get to. Then a hike down in the morning to go to the main buildings where the dining room, lounge, office, garden patios, etc. are located. The hiking up to our room was the hard part – at least until we acclimated to the elevation. We relished the chance to get in shape for our hikes in the coming days, so did the walk to and from our room gladly, even if we did have to rest several times on the way up – mainly to breathe! So we hiked down for breakfast.

In 1790, several haciendas existed in that area that were used as Jesuit retreats. The hacienda at San Jorge was part of that community and in 1905, the Ecuadorian president and his family purchased it and the farm around it. In 1970, Jorge Cruz Sr, and some family members bought the big hacienda to develop an agricultural and cattle farm. In 1989, Dr. George Cruz and his wife, Irina, (the present owners) developed Hosteria San Jorge Botanical Reserve to show the historic and bird-important area to the world, and developed the Magic Birding Circuit with 4 other eco-lodge sites that they built, at Milpe, Tandayapa, Yanayacu, and Cosanga.

The staff was glad to see us at breakfast, and again were very apologetic for last night’s mix up. They showed us to our table in the dining room (seating for about 24), and brought out a pot of the thick Ecuadorian coffee for Phil and te negro for me (black tea). Half of Phil’s coffee cup he filled with milk! Next came a plate for each of us with a variety of nicely arranged fruits – papaya, melon, and strawberries. Then huevos – scrambled or fried. And we were set for the morning. I had told them ahead of time that I had a problem with wheat, and they were very accommodating – none of my meals (including the desserts) had wheat. Occasionally, my soup would be different from Phil’s, or my dessert would not be the same as his. They really did a good job, even though I can usually pick and choose things I’m able to eat from whatever is offered. I can’t always tell what the ingredients are if something is coated in a flour substance, like chicken or fish, but they were careful to let me know that if something had to be coated, it was with corn flour. We had remembered from our previous trip that the food at this and their other lodges was excellent. And we were please to discover that it was still true. Vicente’s wife, Rosa was an excellent cook! All our meals were wonderful, and mainly consisted of fresh fruits and vegetables and many of the native foods and dishes. For us, all of those features help make a trip very special.

After breakfast, we spent some time sitting around one of the patios where there were several hummingbird feeders and managed to see Black-tailed Trainbearers, Masked Flowerpiercers, a White-bellied Woodstar and a few Shining Sunbeams. Aren’t those names great? We also saw Eared Doves, Great Sapphirewings (another hummingbird) and a pair of gorgeous Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers. And walking around the gardens, we saw Tyrian Metaltails, several Great Thrushes, and Sparkling Violetear – yet another hummingbird.

It was soon time for me to take a nap. The long day before and equally long night were taking their toll. Phil sat out on our balcony and looked at birds from there. Below the balcony was a great expanse of shrubbery filling an expansive downhill area to the main buildings. They had a fruit feeder stuck in the middle of the area and we could usually find birds there, such as a pair of Southern Yellow Grosbeaks and lots of Rufous-collared Sparrows. Phil, of course, found his usually Tit-Tyrants, which I had not yet seen. When I woke up he had me join him on the balcony and we puzzled over several flycatcher-looking birds. After a conversation at dinner with our guide-to-be, Julio, we decided they were White-crested Elaenias, even though we couldn’t see their crests. I suspected they might be young ones.

In the afternoon, at the end of a walk on one of the Lodge trails, we returned to our room and noticed a couple of the staff coming down the stairs rather hurriedly. When we approached our room, we discovered why. There were flowers strewn all along the walkway leading into our room, a trail of them through the room, and an arrangement of them on the bed! Also, there was a bottle of champagne, two glasses, and a large platter of fruits on a table! How sweet was that! Phil had told them when he made our reservation that we would be celebrating our 30thanniversary, and this was their way of honoring us!

In addition, at dinner that night, 2 other groups were there, and after dinner the cooks and staff and owner, George Cruz, came in with a beautifully decorated cake to celebrate and for everyone to share. A Canadian group of birders sang a French birthday song to me, then we explained it was our anniversary. It was all great fun and so kind of the staff. One of the couples at dinner was Chinese, and we had seen them during the day with large cameras taking photos of the flowers in the gardens. We later learned that they were the couple who had confiscated our airport ride the night before! They were very nice, spoke English rather well, and we chatted with them several times. After dinner, we also met the man who would be our guide for the next 3 days – Julio Ayala. He joined us with Jorge Cruz, the owner of the lodges, for our celebratory dessert and we chatted about birding and what we would do the next day. Our plan was to go to the nearby Yanacocha Ecological Reserve for the morning. Sr. Cruz again apologized profusely for the airport mixup. And we headed off to bed.

Day 3, Friday, Sept 27, 2013. Yanacocha Ecological Reserve, Fundacion Jocotoco

This would be our first day with Julio Ayala, our driver and birding guide.He ate breakfast with us at 6:30 and by 7, we were on our way in one of San Jorge’s mini-vans. We didn’t find out until our last day that Julio had been staying at San Jorge Lodge for the three days he would be with us, since his home was more than an hour away near Tandayapa. He ate all his meals with us, but we thought it was just because he was there to guide us. We thought he went home every night! He did speak English fairly well, but he wasn’t always forthcoming with information. We would have to get better acquainted, and this might be a challenge. If you know me, though, you know I ought to be able to get acquainted with a rock!

Whenever you head out on a hike, you always have decisions to make. What to wear? What to bring? Julio had warned us to layer our clothes because the first few hours might be chilly since we’d be fairly high up – Yanacocha, on the northeast slope of Pichincha Volcano, is about 10,500 feet high. The temperature was in the low 50’s when we started out. Phil used a small day pack that fastened around his waist and that held his bird book, camera, notebook and pen, 2 bottles of water and a couple of bags if GORP he had brought from home. (GORP is an old backpacker’s term meaning Good Old Raisins and Peanuts.)I used my shoulder bag (a field bag/purse) which held my bird book, camera, notebook, pen, and miscellaneous “purse” items. We also had rain jackets with us, but left them in the car as there was no rain predicted. They were in the last of their dry season days, so we hoped rain would not be a problem. Julio carried a scope, his bird book, and over his shoulder had a small amplifier which he could use with his iPod to play bird songs and bring birds closer to us. He would also use the “pishing” method of luring birds closer by making little shushing noises, like we do in North America. It works on these southern birds also!

Phil was using a new Ecuador field guide – “Fieldbook of the Birds of Ecuador” by Miles McMullan and Lelis Navarrete (2013) – and would be trying it out. I carried my old bird book plates (the pictures of the birds) from Robert Ridgely’s huge, unwieldly book, “The Birds of Ecuador” (2001). Ridgely wrote the foreward to McMullan/Navarrete’s book and said, “I am pleased that the authors of this volume have generously offered to give Fundacion Jocotoco . . .that now owns and manages no less than ten private reserves scattered across the country, each of them protecting a critically rare bird species or habitat, a substantial portion of the proceeds from the sales of this book.” Julio wasn’t familiar with the new book, but he would be by the time our 3 days was over. Phil and I compared them endlessly, arguing their relative merits, providing amusement for Julio.

The drive from San Jorge Eco-lodge to the paved road was about 5 minutes down a very rough rock/dirt road. A few minutes west on the paved road took us to the turn off to Yanacocha Reserve, and from that point it is 5 miles up to the trailhead, and the road is very rough. (Sounds like all the roads in Ecuador are very rough. Well, they are.) This is an area that still has remnants of the “Old Inca Trail”, if you know where to look, which we didn’t. About 5,000 years ago, (hard to believe) the Incas blazed a trail for trading that was built along the Nono Alto Plateau, along which we would be hiking and driving during the next few days. Also, in the Yanacocha area there are remnants of the “Inca Ditch”, which was used (and is still used today!) to bring water down from the mountains to Quito.

As we went slowly up the rough road, Julio kept an eye out for birds along the road. Phil and I kept an eye out over the surrounding mountains and valleys looking for an Andean Condor, one of our “target birds”. Since the clouds had settled over us, this wouldn’t be easy. I was surprised to find many wildflowers blooming along the roadside – things that looked like yellow Hawkweed and Lupine in lovely shades of lavender.As we rounded a bend a couple of miles along, we spotted a “cottontail” rabbit on the edge of the road about 50 feet in front of us. We stopped, the rabbit hopped, and out of the brush at the edge also hopped a Tawny Antpitta! This was not a new bird, but lots of fun to see. They hop or walk along the ground on longish legs and are very upright in their stance, about the size of an American Robin only perhaps a little rounder. Julio got out the scope and we got to see the cooperative antipitta very well as he stood in the road, keeping an eye on us.Back in the car and climbing higher, the clouds dissipated, and all was clear and blue and we could see for many miles. We kept driving along slowly, stopping occasionally at places Julio thought might yield some birds, and they usually did. We watched Brown-bellied Swallows zooming around the side of the mountain, and a few Purple Martins, recently arrived from the North America. I added a few birds to my notebook that we didn’t see, but Julio heard, such as an Ocellated Tapaculo and a Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant. We did manage to see a Crowned Chat-Tyrant that was new for us. One of the times we were out of the car, I saw a bird soaring high above the forest near a large rocky cliff. There were 2 of them – raptors – moving around, soaring, wheeling, then landing on a tree. They were pretty far off, but since they landed once in a while, Julio could get the scope on them and we got to see our first Aplomado Falcons, not a common bird. That was pretty exciting. Julio said he had only seen one once before!We finally arrived at the trailhead, Julio paid our entrance fee ($15 per person) to the Yanacocha Reserve, protected and managed by the Fundacion Jocoto, we signed in, and headed up the trail. One of the birds we kept hearing all along the trail was Spectacled Whitestart, a kind of warbler, which took us a while to find. What a beautiful song, highpitched and twittery like you’d expect warblers to sound. Their dark colors and white tail feathers reminded me of the Fan-tailed Warbler I found in Arizona 3 years ago.

This was our 3rdor 4thwalk up this trail (including previous visits) and I am always slowed down by the amazing plants, both flowering and non-flowering. And of course the dramatic views looking off toward the mountains and valleys as you walk along are always breath-taking. You skirt the side of the mountain on a relatively flat trail, and at one point, even cross what looks like a concrete footbridge (with a rail of course), with deep canyons way down below you, and planted fields way off against the sides of other mountains and many peaks absolutely covered by forests. It is really astounding scenery – one of the reasons we are attracted to this area of Ecuador. And of course, all those mountains and forests are habitat for wildlife – such as birds!

We continued our hike and Julio found a Red-breasted Cotinga, which was new for us. At several spots along the trail the Foundation Jocotoco has erected and maintains hummingbird feeders, and near the end of our hike we came to some that were near a covered seating area where we saw dozens of hummingbirds – most spectacularly the Swordbilled Hummingbird. It’s hard to believe they could hold up their bill, since it’s about as long as their entire body! Other birders were there, a group of about 8 and 2 guides, huge cameras clicking furiously, and another 2 men whom Julio knew and chatted with. We learned that his 2 friends had seen a female Black-breasted Puffleg that morning, the endangered endemic bird that is the specialtyof that area, and the reason the Reserve was created. Julio told us they were doing some research onthe bird for the Ecuadorian Conservation of Birds organization, which was studying the endemics of the country. They very proudly showed us their photos from that morning. At the feeders, we watched Buff-winged Starfrontlets, Green-tailed Trainbearers, Sapphire-vented Pufflegs, Golden-breasted Pufflegs, and Mountain-Velvetbreasts. An impressive mass of buzzing, zipping around, whirring, darting, zooming and swarming handfuls of colorful iridescent feathers. Our time was running out as we had to return for 1pm lunch. On our way back down the trail, we got into a mixed feeding flock of birds and added Stripe-headed Brush-Finch, a Blue-backed Conebill (which was new for us), a Pearled Treerunner, Superciliaried Hemispingus, Barred Becard, Golden-crowned Tanager (also new), and a Black-chested Mountain-Tanager.And we were late for lunch.

The staff was waiting for us and served us a lovely lunch (soup, smoked ham chops, potatoes, etc) out on the patio so we could watch the hummers come and go to the feeders. It was after 2:30 when we finished and I was ready for a nap. Phil and Julio went on some of the trails around the lodge and up into the nearby forest, and of course he found a flock of Tufted Tit-Tyrants. I’ll never see that bird. And at this point, I don’t give a damn. Except that they’re so cute! After my nap, I took advantage of the hot water available and had a shower.

When they got back, nothing would do but Phil had to take me out to re-trace their steps and find me the Tufted cuties. We wandered around the nearby trails, going to the exact spot where they had seen them not a half hour before, and of course, they were nowhere to be found. The Tufted curse strikes again.

We went down to the lounge to find some hot tea and coffee and chat with some of the other guests before dinner. The Chinese couple had left during the day, but they had gone to the San Jorge de Tandayapa Eco-lodge, our destination for the next day, so we might see them again. They were a friendly young couple, not birders, but avid photographers and were headed for the Galapagos in a few days. They spoke fairly good English, he in the computer tech industry and she in banking.

Julio ate dinner with us and we discussed plans for the next day. He was going to have to go into Quito to pick up 3 people at a hotel who had arranged to go with us to Tandayapa. Then he would come back and pick us up. We’d have to be ready for 6am breakfast. I wasn’t too keen on having to spend the day sharing our guide, but we had known there might be others on our daily tours.

Day 4, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2013. San Jorge de Tandayapa Eco-lodge & Hummingbird Sanctuary

Vincente surprised us with a call at 5am and said we should be ready for 5:30 breakfast, so we had to hurry and get ready. For some reason, we were going earlier. Fruit, eggs, tea and coffee and we were on our way. Instead of Julio picking us up, Vincente was taking us part way to town to meet him. We weren’t sure why the change of plans, but we were putty in their hands. It was sort of nice in a way to be totally irresponsible. We met Julio along a roadside, and he and Vincente traded places. Julio was alone – the “townies” had cancelled on him, so there we were again, with our own private guide. Fine with us!

We zoomed through the streets and were soon on the “new road” to Tandayapa. This was a road we had driven on our first trip to Ecuador – on our way west from the airport to the town of Mindo, only this time Phil could actually watch the scenery, which is spectacular. Mountains covered by forests, valleys you can’t see the bottoms of, farms here and there on the steep sides – amazing to see it all. And Phil didn’t have to worry about the drivers, all of which he had named “Ecuadorio Andretti”.

We turned left on a dirt road – unmarked of course – leading to the San Jorge de Tandayapa Eco-lodge and preserve high up in the cloud forest, elevation about 5500 feet – a little over a mile. On our 08/09 trip (without a guide) we tried to find that dirt road and ended up in Quito! I’m still not sure we could find it again even now. If we could master GPS coordinates maybe we could. We stayed at the Eco-lodge the previous trip and were their 2nd guests ever, and the lodge had not quite been completed at that time. But we loved it! We were looking forward to seeing it again, and trying out their new road up to the lodge. Previously, you had to hike about 30 minutes up their trails to get there, carrying your luggage.

The new road up to the lodge is as challenging as any steep dirt/rock road we’ve experienced in the mountains of North Carolina. And we still had to walk about 10 minutes up to the buildings from the parking area. But it is nice to be at the lodge and not look out on a parking lot. We got up to the dining cabana and there were our Chinese friends, David and Paige (Anglicized versions of their names)! They were so pleased to see us, and hadn’t known we were coming. I think they had only been expecting Julio and had been invited to hike with us. So they finished their breakfast, while we ogled all the birds at the many feeders hanging around the cabana and took loads of photo

It’s incredible how many birds gather at the feeders – many designed specifically for hummingbirds, and in that brief time we saw Green-crowned Brilliants, Buff-tailed Coronets, Andean Emeralds, Booted Racket-tails, Purple-throated Woodstars, Brown Violetears and Violet-tailed Sylphs – all very fancy names for hummingbirds. And I’m sure we missed some! One tree was devoted to fruit-eating birds and while we watched, it was visited by Golden Tanagers, Orange-bellied Euphonias (which were new for us), White-winged Brush-Finches, Golden-naped Tanagers, Lemon-rumped Tanagers, Thick-billed Euphonias and Flame-faced Tanagers. The display of colors would astound you. Another tree was draped with bananas and attracted the larger Red-headed Barbets and Crimson-rumped Toucanets. As with any experience like this, it’s hard to know where to look first! And what are they all? And where are they in the bird book? You have to look fast, and remember that any minute they’ll be back again, or something even more wonderful will show up! On the ground, maybe 50 feet away across a clearing, some kind of grain had been scattered, and there stood a bird we didn’t know. Obviously a ground-feeding seed-eater – a large quail-dove. We learned it was the White-throated Quail-Dove, another new bird for us.

We finally were encouraged (prodded?) by Julio to gather our belongings so we could get out on the trails in the forest. David and Paige didn’t have binoculars, but were laden with cameras with long lenses and a tripod. We learned quickly that whenever anyone found a bird, Paige was on it with her camera in a few seconds. She was a good spotter. David carried a video camera. They both smiled a lot and were very pleasant to be with, and very interested in the birds. We also pointed out plants, mushrooms, and insects for them. During the morning Paige expressed their wish that education in China could take students out of doors more. What an idea – field trips to teach natural history concepts!

The trails at the Tandayapa Eco-lodge are wonderful! They wind up and down, back and forth, switchbacks through the lush rainforest/cloud forest that surrounds you with endless shades of green. Occasionally, we could get glimpses of other mountains and forests in the distance. We were in the middle of nowhere, but in one of our most beloved places on earth. Nothing but jungle sounds, a watery dribble of a stream here and there. Julio said he heard a deer at one spot. He heard many things we didn’t, and those sounds usually alerted him to birds that were around. We would stop quietly, not talking much as we walked along, and he would make pishing noises to entice the birds closer. Or if he could identify the bird he was hearing, which was often the case, he would play the tape of their song to lure them closer. Usually, if we were observant enough and followed his directions, we got to see the bird. And David and Paige got photos and videos of them and were as excited as we were.

We hiked for about 3 hours and added several birds to our trip list – Yellow-bellied Seedeaters (in a grassy area near the buildings), Montane Woodcreeper at the edge of the forest, a migrant Red-eyed Vireo in the trees nearby, a Barred Hawk soaring overhead, and as we got back inside the forest we found White-tailed Tyrannulet, Slate-throated Whitestart, heard and then saw a Plumbeous Pigeon (new for us). Julio made an odd noise and an Immaculate Antbird came closer, Phil saw an Ornate Flyctcher, and I found a Golden-crowned Flycatcher. Among the many tropical rainforest plants I enjoyed seeing was a ground cover that looked very much like Florida “Basket Grass” – a shade-loving ground cover. Of course, many red, orange, yellow, and purple gingers and heliconias were blooming.

There is a popular and famous birding spot near Mindo called Angel Pas Antpitta Farm, where Angel has managed to get several species of antpittas to come to worms he offers them. We visited there on our previous trip (future blog). He calls to them from the trail and they come out to get the tasty morsels. Julio is trying the same thing on the Tandayapa trails, and along the walk he picked up a couple of worms and carried them until he came to a place where he has seen antpittas. He called “Juanito”, we listened, we waited, he called several more times, but no antpitta appeared. Maybe the next time we go there, Julio will have them better trained. No matter – it was a wonderful morning!

Back at the cabana for lunch, we watched the feeders again and saw 4 more species of hummingbirds! Purple-bibbed White-tip, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, and a White-necked Jacobin. Don’t you love those names? And who thinks these things up? That brought us up to eleven species of hummers for the day! Overwhelming! Also, a Black-capped Tanager, a Palm Tanager and a Russet-backed Oropendola (new for us) showed up at the fruit feeders. What a day! And we weren’t finished yet.

NOTE: One advantage of spending the night at the San Jorge de Tandayapa Eco-lodge is that mammals frequently visit the feeding stations after dark. One animal that has been reported recently is the newly discovered Olinguito, a small member of the Raccoon family. This animal was previously thought to be an Olingo, which looks similar, but the snout shape and teeth are different. The zoologist who made the discovery, Kris Helgen, of the Smithsonian, said the new mammal had been mistaken as an Olingo for years. In fact, there had been one in U.S. zoos in the 1960’s and 1970’s and even though it had refused to breed or mingle with other Olingos, no one realized it wasn’t the same species! It lives in the cloud forests and is not considered to be endangered. And they may be living at Tandayapa!

While our lunch was being prepared, we were treated to glasses of fresh lemonade and sat in the lovely forest setting watching the birds come and go to the feeders. What an Eden it is there. Since we stayed there in 08/09, George Cruz, the owner, has added a two-story lodge, which adds several rooms to their facility. The grounds around where the construction took place have been filled with flowering bird-attracting shrubbery such as huge flowering bushes of blue Porterweed. They’ve done an excellent job of adding accommodations, but still retaining a totally natural feel to the place. Beyond the nearby forest, valleys and mountains are visible through the clouds with tall Cecropia trees shining gray against the many shades of green. Eden.

Our lunch began with a delicious shrimp gazpacho appetiser, filled with onions and other fresh vegetables, followed by a yummy potato soup. The entrée was grilled tilapia with a cucumber salad and a lentil side dish. Dessert was a fig in some kind of sweet sauce. On our previous stay, Senora Cruz (Erina) had come to Tandayapa to cook for us, and we knew she was an expert chef. So, this trip, when I had a chance to speak to her, I asked if she was still the “head chef” and meal planner and she said she was. (Vicente’s wife, Rosa, was cooking for us at San Jorge de Quito.) I complimented Erina profusely on all the food we had been served. Not only that, they had gone the extra mile for me in making sure my meals had no wheat in them. Once in a while my soup would be specially made and my dessert would be different from the rest. I really appreciated them taking care of me in this way.

During lunch, David and Paige told Julio that they wanted to try to photograph the spectacular Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. Julio said that there was a place not too far away where we might have a chance to see one, if it was OK with Phil and me to take the time to do it. The only other thing on our itinerary for the rest of the day was making our way back to San Jorge de Quito by way of the famous Nono-Mindo Road – mainly to look for Torrent Ducks. We had seen Cock-of-the-Rock before – in fact on each of our previous 2 trips to Ecuador, but we were up for anything, and there was always the possibility of adding others birds to our list – perhaps even new ones. So we packed up, added two more lifers to our list at the dining cabana (the Russet-backed Oropendula and a Wedge-billed Hummer) and hiked back down to the car. Phil observed something he had always wanted to see: the Wedge-billed Hummingbird piercing the base of the flower, rather than reaching in through the top of the blossom. This enabled the bird to access the nectar without picking up any pollen, and so that means that this bird is considered to be a parasite rather than a helpful pollinator like most hummingbirds are. We would have to return David and Paige to the lodge when we were finished, since they were spending another night there, before they went on to the Galapagos.

We drove toward Julio’s Cock-of-the-Rock spot along a dirt road and on the way stopped and birded several times and found Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Beautiful Jays (That’s their real name – and they are!). Both of them were new for us. We also saw a Toucan Barbet, a Crimson-Mantled Woodpecker, and Spotted Woodcreepers. At another stop Julio found a Sickle-winged Guan, Tyrinine Woodcreeper, which was new for Phil, and a Hooded Mountain-Tanager, which was new for both of us. So we added several new birds!

At the place where Julio had been seeing Cock-of-the-Rock, we watched and waited for the bird to appear across a deep ravine. This was the location of a lek where the male birds show off to each other, and for a couple of days a year the females come and watch and select a mate from among the show-offs. We stood around for about half an hour, watching and waiting, scanning the trees for this fabulous large scarlet red/orange bird with huge white patches on its back. Wandering back and forth on the road, Julio finally heard one calling. He had his scope ready, and suddenly out popped the bird, a beautiful Andean Cock-of-the Rock, who was calling for someone – anyone – to come look at how spectacular he was. So we gladly obliged, and in a minute or so, he was gone. Poof. Paige and David got some great photos – her telephoto lens really was terrific. We were all exhilarated!

Nothing left to do then but return them to the lodge and head for “home”. We had spent a great day together, we exchanged email addresses, wished them well on their Galapagos adventure, took photos together, and said goodbye – to our first Chinese friends. We hoped we would see them again one day.

By this time we were losing daylight. We only had a couple of hours left to find more birds and get back for 7pm dinner. So we headed down the old Nono-Mindo Road, east toward Quito, stopping at places Julio thought might produce some birds. The road follows the Alambi River, a rushing, tumbling narrow waterway coming down from the mountains, and every place where we could see the river, we pulled over and searched assiduously for our target bird – the Torrent Duck – a bird we had failed to find on previous trips. These birds are similar in habits to our North American Harlequin Ducks that live around rushing mountain streams out west. We stopped at bridges, getting out of the car to look upstream and down, searching around the trout farms we passed, watching at every place close to the river, and finally found them, almost at the last spot where we could see the river.

There were 2 males (uncommon to see males together, Julio said) standing on a rock in the river, and while we watched them from about 100 feet away, they ducked into the water, reappeared and arched their backs and spread their tails, and disappeared. Got ‘em! They are such beautiful ducks, the males with long necks, white on the sides of the face with two thin black lines coming from the eye and going down the neck. Very distinguished-looking. It was getting darker so the only other bird we stopped for was to get a good look at a White-capped Dipper, also on a rock in the river, just like our North American Dipper.

Then we high-tailed it for home to make it in time for dinner, going through the small but tidy town of Nono. When we went through there in 08/09 I was impressed to learn that it had been designated a “Red Zone” – known to be in the path of volcanic earthquakes and rainstorm landslides and mudslides. Chaos! I had to remind myself that more than 10 peaks in Ecuador were over 15,000 feet high, and several of the 28 volcanoes in Ecuador were still active! I remarked then that “ Nono was the cleanest, nicest-looking village we had seen, with freshly painted houses, a Rotary Club meeting place, a huge school, Catholic church (of course) and lots of smiling, friendly-looking people – many of them looking very Indigenous – right off the Incan carvings.”

I wonder if we could stay in Nono some day

Day 5, Sunday, September 29. Papallacta – the top of the Andes.

This would be our last day of birding on this trip. We were up early, ate our usual breakfast, and headed out to cross the immense megalopolis of Quito – huge, and crammed with almost 3 million people! We stopped to pick up Julio’s younger brother, Ruben, who was coming along for the ride since he had never been up to where we were going, and he would do some of the driving. We were glad to have him along and were soon across Quito and heading east on the steep, winding road up to the top of the Andes at Papallacta Pass – 12, 200 feet high and almost 2 hours from our San Jorge de Quito Eco-lodge.

The day was cloudy and as we gained altitude it became even cloudier and misty. Our chances of seeing condors, one of our target birds, were waning. We stopped at a hot springs facility (popular in that area) and got permission to go higher up into a restricted area. We parked alongside a large reservoir and watchedat Andean Gulls, Andean Teal, and Yellow-billed Pintails through the scope. And waited while an unexpected herd of cows wandered by.

We returned to the main highway, and drove even higher turning off onto a dirt road that would lead up into the paramo habitat – a high, treeless, plateau. Suddenly the misty rain turned into snow! As we made the turn onto the dirt road, Julio stopped the car and pointed down at the side of the road, and there was a new bird for Phil, one I had seen on ourlast trip – a Plumbeous Sierra Finch. And we were being snowed on! This was Ruben’s first snow, so we were all excited! With that weather, the condors were probably hunkered down somewhere looking round-shouldered and morose. I was in the back seat looking the same.

Visibility was terrible, but we did stop by a couple of small lakes and found a Bar-winged Cinclodes and watched it through the telescope. It acted like a plover or a killdeer, but is a beautiful shade of rufous. We stopped every so often to look for birds, and once we actually saw a Tawny Antpitta strollacross the road – in the snow! We drove higher up as far as we could safely go, but eventually the road got icy and we decided that was high enough. We got out and walked around a while – fortunately we had come prepared for high altitude and cold weather, so were dressed warmIly. I was excited to find severalcolorfulalpine wildflowers blooming, reminding me of high elevations in the U.S. We even found a couple of chilly-looking people up that high that were camping! They didn’t even have a fire going – just standing around probably wondering what ever possessed them to go up there.

There are lots of trails in that area, but when it’s rainy and snowy, it’s not too conducive to productive birding. And several of the access roads were closed because of the impassible conditions. So, we came back down and stopped in the town of Papallacta, situated in a steep valley, which is famous for their hot springs, and being a Sunday, it was packed with people and cars. We got permission to drive higher up to another Reserve and hiked probably a half mile or so, watching Black-crested Warblers, Turquoise Jays, and White-collared Swifts. Julio found us another new bird – a Grass Wren, almost like a small Carolina Wren, which would be our last new bird of the trip.

We shared some of the snacks that Rosa had prepared for us just in case we wouldn’t get back by 1pm lunchtime. There was no chance of that! The guys shared 2 big sandwiches and I nibbled on my leftover Humitas from breakfast, which I had tucked n my pack, just in case. This was a sweet cornmeal concoction made with milk and sugar and put in a cornhusk and steamed. It was so delicious, and I managed to get the recipe from Cheryl, our trip organizer, who lives in the states. It was even good cold.

We didn’t get back to San Jorge until almost 3:30. After a brief rest, we got things pretty well packed up, watched some more birds from our dear little balcony, and hiked down to the lounge about an hour or so before dinner. Another couple had just checked in, so we got acquainted with them. He was retired from being a computer whiz, and she is a CEO of a biotech company trying to find a cure for malaria and is scheduled to retire in a few months. They live on a farm in Oregon, and have taken a few weeks off to explore South America. They first spent a week in Peru with a hiking tour company doing Machu Pichu, then several days at the San Jorge lodges doing plants, then they would be a week in the Galapagos.Very interesting conversations.It always amazes me that we pick out the birdiest places to go and we meet people there who don’t even have binoculars! They haven’t a clue what they’re missing. And we probably have no clue what they’re enjoying without binoculars that we’re missing.

Our last dinner began with our final yummy soup and an entrée of fish and potatoes. Another delicious meal prepared and presented artfully. One interesting note about dining at San Jorge de Quito – the server (usually Vincente this trip) always dresses to serve – black pants, white shirt, and some kind of weskit or vest. And this is true at all of their lodges – even in the middle of the most remote location. It’s very nice and gives a touch of other-worldly charm in the bush. Of course, it was appropriate for us to always dress in our field clothes. We never saw anyone dress up for dinner except our server.

Phil had Vincente open the office so he could finalize our bill and give him the tip for the staff. I had gone earlier and picked out one of their fleece jackets with a gorgeous emblem of the trainbearer hummingbird on it for our one and only souvenir of the trip! So we returned to our room and finished packing, eliminating some things which we left for the staff, and set our alarm for 1:15am! We had to be at the airport 2 hours before our flight at 6am. And I wanted to make sure we had enough time to get to the airport – about 1 1/2 hours away from our San Jorge lodge. Vincente had arranged for Pedro (one of their drivers) to pick us up at 2am. And we went to sleep, everything packed, clothes all laid out, ready to put on – not in the morning, but in the middle of the night.

Thinking aboutclothes and packing: We did a pretty good job this trip of not over packing – not taking clothes we never used. Of course we were only going for 4 days in the field and 2 travel days, so it didn’t really amount to that much, but it is so easy to over pack. And it’s always frustrating to come home with things we never wore. It seems so senseless. So we keep trying to take less and less on our trips. In the first place, most of what we did this trip didn’t get us very dirty, except for the day we were in the Andes and we had to walk through some muddy places, which got my warm-up pants a little dirty on the cuffs. They were too long anyway. For the trip down, we had managed to pack all our clothes – including warmies (coats, umbrellas, hats, gloves, etc) – in our new carry-on bags, and had originally planned to carry them on the plane. However, we hadn’t counted on their weight, and the airline had a rule about the weight of carry-on luggage, and we were over the limit. So we ended up having to check our bags. Nuts. And we each had a shoulder bag and I had my purse/day pack, but it fit into my shoulder bag if I needed it to. Our shoulder bags held things like journals, field notebooks, reading material, binoculars, cameras, meds and vitamins. I even had an extra pair of underwear and field pants in mine. And Phil had his scope and tripod in his! We combined bathroom stuff into one bag, which he had in his suitcase (carry-on). We had been asked to bring a couple of items for our host, Sr. Cruz, which Cheryl had shipped to us – a new camera and a new speaker headset (probably for whenhe leads tours), and I had those in my suitcase (carry-on). AND we had room in the top of our checked bags for our pillows – which we never go anywhere without. For the return trip, Phil even managed to pack the unopened bottle of champagne they gave us. Neither of us care too much for it, but we would share it with someone. We wondered if the lack of pressure in the hold would explode it, neither of us being too sure of the chemistry of the thing. But it was fine.

Day 6. Monday, September 30, Our actual anniversary! The Trip Home.

It rained during the night – really poured! The weather had beenmostly dry during the trip – except for the snowy day in the Andes. When our alarm went off it was still raining. Not total monsoon rain, but nearly so. We had planned to wear our raincoats, then stow them in our luggage when we got to the airport, but I had mistakenly packed ourumbrellas. Nuts. At 1:45 a horn honked for us, and we put on our raincoats and hauled our stuff to a truck Vincente had driven to an upper walkway fairly near our room. Even though it wasn’t too far to walk to the truck, we got pretty well soaked, including shoes and socks. He drove us down to the parking lot in front of the lodge entrance, and there was Pedro in a sedan, waiting to take us. We hopped in, said our goodbyes to Vincente and off we went. I dozed and mostly kept my eyes closed all the way to the airport. I didn’t need to see Quito again. I would remember the rainforest and cloud forest instead.

We tipped Pedro and went inside the beautiful, new airport building, where we stowed our raincoats in our luggage and grabbed a change of socks, so at least our feet would be dry. Our quick-dry field pants would be dry soon. We checked in, checked our bags (didn’t even mess with trying to carry them on), went through security, and found our boarding gate. Our plane actually left 15 minutes early. We flew on Avianca but the leg from Quito to Bogota, Colombia, was handled by Aero Gal. All four of our flights were on planes that had relatively big seats compared to American airplanes, and served meals! We were served a very nice spinach/cheese omelet and a bowl of fruit for breakfast on our first leg! We would have a 2 hour layover in Bogota. Unfortunately, our plane was late leaving Bogota, but we managed to get into Ft. Lauderdale not too late, so they must have had a tailwind. We were served a rice and beef dish, a small salad and a dessert. And we slept a lot!

Back in Ft. Lauderdale, there were huge lines waiting to go through customs, but we managed to have interesting conversations with people in line, got through it all, walked to our car and got home. Safe and sound and happy. Nice long weekend – in Ecuador.

New Bird Totals: ANN – 16 PHIL – 19

Total Trip Birds Seen: 110

NEW BIRDS:

Note: Ann had previously seen 3 of the new ones that Phil got.

Crowned Chat-Tyrant

Aplomado Falcon

Red-crested Cotinga

Blue-backed Conebill

Golden-crowned Tanager

White-throated Quail-Dove

Orange-bellied Euphonia

Plumbeous Pigeon

Russet-backed Oropendola

Wedge-billed Hummingbird

Beautiful Jays

Strong-billed Woodcreeper

Tyrannine Woodcreeper (Phil)

Hooded Mountain-Tanager

Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant

Torrent Ducks

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phil)

Paramo Ground-Tyrant (Phil)

Grass Wren

Close This Window